Kyiv Monastery of the Caves: Beautiful & Historic
Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra is one of Kyiv’s most beautiful tourist attractions. If you are ever in Kyiv, you should definitely check out the lavra, also called the Kyiv Monastery of the Caves.
In this post, I’ll give a bit of history and show you lots of photos. Plus I’ll also introduce you to one of my favorite Russian proverbs EVER, which is closely connected with Kyiv and the monastery.
UPDATE: Right now the Ukrainian people are suffering greatly during the Russian invasion. I encourage you to consider making a donation to support the most vulnerable victims – the children. I personally have chosen to support Voices of Children, a Ukrainian-based organization that helps children in the aftermath of and during war. You can learn more and donate here.
Kyiv: A Little Bit of History
Did you know that Kyiv was once the seat of a major world power? From the late 9th to the mid-13th century, much of the territory of modern Ukraine, Belarus, and western Russia was known as Kievan Rus’. In fact, Rus’ is where we get the modern names “Russia” and “Belarus”!
The Rus’ people were likely originally Norse (aka Vikings!), but they migrated south and east and assimilated with Slavic tribes. The Ruriks, a Norse dynasty, established control in the 860s and moved their capital to Kyiv. And thus Kievan Rus’ was born.
Vitaliyf261, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Kyiv was the center of political, cultural, and religious power until its destruction in the 1240s. After losing Kyiv, the Ruriks ended up in Moscow and became the first dynasty of Russian tsars. So Kyiv isn’t just important for the history of Ukraine, but also for Russia.
Okay, enough history. Let’s look at our beautiful tourist destination: the Kyiv Monastery of the Caves!
Kyiv Monastery of the Caves
In 1051, at the height of Kievan Rus’, Sts. Anthony and Theodosius founded Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra on the slopes overlooking the Dnieper River. The Orthodox monks lived in cells fashioned from caves in the hillside. Later on, many of them were then buried in those same caves.
This is where the name of the monastery comes from: печера (pechera) means “cave” in Russian. A lavra is a term for an Orthodox monastery that is prominent for historical or spiritual reasons. So, in English, we can also say the Kyiv Monastery of the Caves.
The monastery is still active today, although now the monks live in structures above ground. The lavra complex is quite large, featuring numerous beautiful churches in addition to its main attraction: the caves in the hillside where over 100 Orthodox saints are buried.
Back in the time of Kievan Rus’, pilgrims traveled from all over to visit the lavra and venerate the tombs of the saints. Today you can still encounter many pilgrims there. In fact, during my visit, most of the people seemed religiously motivated. But tourists are also welcome, so long as they respect the visiting guidelines (more below).
Why should you visit the Kyiv Monastery of the Caves?
Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra is one of the main tourist attractions in Kyiv, and with good reason. Here are my top three reasons for visiting:
- There are numerous beautiful churches to admire and paths to wander down
- There is an amazing view of Kyiv from the top of the bell tower
- Touring the caves will rank as one of your most unique travel experiences EVER (I’m not exaggerating!)
Dormition Cathedral
The Dormition Cathedral is the main church in the lavra. It was originally built in the 11th century, but was completely destroyed during World War II. (It remains unclear whether the Nazis or the Soviets were the culprits.) Once Ukraine regained independence from the USSR, the government rebuilt the cathedral according to the original plan.
I’m glad they did, because the results are breathtaking! As you can see, it was quite stormy the day I visited, but still lovely.
The Great Lavra Bell Tower
The Great Lavra Bell Tower stands right next to Dormition Cathedral. It is 96.5 m (316 ft) tall and has dominated the Kyiv skyline ever since its construction in the mid-18th century. The tower itself is beautiful, with four tiers and a golden dome, but it’s the view from the top that is truly special.
If you climb the tower, you can look down over the lavra and see the nearby churches from above. And you can gaze out over the Dnieper and all of Kyiv. Take a look!
After you admire the cathedral and the bell tower, you can head to the caves. Note that, in order to enter, you must be fully covered. Women have to wear a head covering (as they do in most Orthodox churches), and here skirts are also mandatory for women.
Scarves and wrap-around skirts are available for free. I had my own scarf (always a good thing to pack when you are planning to visit religious locations), but I borrowed a skirt to go over my jeans.
The other thing that you are NOT allowed to do is take photos inside the caves. So you will have to be content with my description.
Visiting the Caves
At the entrance to the caves you receive your own thin white taper. Take the candle, because there is no electric light down below! Once your candle is ready, you descend a staircase and soon you are walking down a rock tunnel. Chambers, scraped out of the living rock, branch off in numerous directions.
In most cave chambers you will find one or more burials. And this is the most otherworldly part. Each saint lies exposed on a tombstone, with only a glass protective case separating him from the air.
The saints wear rich, embroidered garments which typically shroud their entire body. But sometimes a clawed hand or parts of a skull peep out from under the fabric. You can definitely tell they have been dead for almost a thousand years.
Candles burn everywhere, and shrines with flowers and beautiful icons adorn some of the caverns. The smell of incense wafts on the air, and pilgrims bow and pray at the saints’ tombs. Many people kiss the glass and cross themselves.
The candlelight, the incense, and the departed saints created a mystical atmosphere. So much so that I felt like I had traveled back in time hundreds of years. It was like nothing I had ever seen . . . and it was also a major fire hazard. We were in a confined space, after all, and we all had open flames. Plus all of us women were wearing scarves and skirts that swished everywhere!
But I am so glad that I visited, because it gave me a glimpse into a whole new world of Orthodox tradition and culture. To this day I recall it as one of my most unique travel experiences, and I highly recommend that you visit if you have the opportunity.
I hope I have demonstrated why Kyiv Monastery of the Caves is worth your time. And now let’s move on to the proverb!
Your Tongue Will Lead You to Kyiv (and the Monastery of the Caves)
Язык до Киева доведёт.
Your tongue will lead you to Kyiv.
This Russian proverb arose hundreds of years ago, back when Kyiv was a major pilgrimage site and hundreds of people travelled to Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra every year. In the absence of Google Maps and road signs, the only way to get there was to ask for directions. So this saying means that you can go anywhere you want, as long as you are willing to seek help.
I am a firm believer in the accuracy of this statement! Sometimes Google fails you, or you don’t have access to wi-fi or data, and you get lost. From Spain to Russia to Turkey, I have had to turn to locals for assistance.
On one memorable day in Italy, it was only with the help of a station guard, a postman, several elderly ladies, and a bus driver that I managed to find the route from Civitavecchia to the Etruscan necropolis at Tarquinia.
Our closest English equivalent is “All roads lead to Rome”. But this doesn’t mean the same thing and, to be honest, it isn’t anywhere near as fun. So next time you have lost your way or you can’t figure something out, remember – your tongue can lead you to Kyiv. Don’t be afraid to ask for help!
Final Thoughts
In conclusion, Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra is both beautiful and historic. I hope you have enjoyed this quick tour and the accompanying Russian proverb!
The Lavra was absolutely the highlight of our trip to Kyiv. Incredibly historical setting both above and below ground. We happened into an Orthodox Mass while underground. Felt compelled to stay for the entire event. Hundreds of Ukrainian citizens attended this solemn mass. Not many 1000+ year old areas like this that I have even come across. Beautiful, enlightening, historical, heart warming. Please God let this survive the Russian invasion.
This is exactly how I felt about my visit to the Lavra! I am so glad you had such a lovely experience, and I am also desperately hoping this historic site will survive the invasion. Thanks for stopping by!